tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88185985909899019492024-03-04T22:48:02.761-08:00 Little Cornish TreesMarcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.comBlogger90125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-35917674567670091062015-11-29T04:15:00.004-08:002015-11-29T04:15:54.912-08:00The styling competition resultsFor those who follow us on here rather than Facebook here are the results of the juniper styling contest we ran. Thanks must go to everyone who entered, made the effort and for sending in their results.......what instantly impressed us all was the variation in styled trees that we saw from what was very similar starting material....<br />
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The initial uptake was going to create a first and second place and the judging did give us a clear winning tree....then it got a little harder as two trees were in the running for second spot and it was such a fine line that it was unfair to put one above the other so we put pur heads together and decided to extend the prizes by in effect having a joint second place...this gave the winner £100 to spend and two £50 prizes going out as well</div>
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Enough chat..........<br />
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Here is the winning tree (Above) styled by Russ ..... The level of work that went into this one impressed the judges, I liked the flow of trunk and shari that followed into the cascade branch taking the eye smoothly through the flow of the tree. The pics supplied showed it slip potted into a cascade pot that Russ already had, but the judging did ignore this and concentrate on the tree styling.<br />
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Then we come to the first of the runner up trees - a lovely compact and very mature image created by Phillip from Ireland. Canopy size is in perfect proportion to the trunk, the dropping branch completes the flow and the jin is just the right length to fit the design and break up the trunk line</div>
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2nd Runner up was Lee's tree - some nice space created, overall size and balance is very nice too. Silhouette is good and the tree will continue to improve as the initial branch pads fit out and bulk up over the next couple of years.</div>
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Cheers to everyone who entered and thanks for all the messages asking about the next styling competition....I'll snap up a batch of pines if some suitable trees come in with next years container so we can have a bit of species variety......We could have fun with a longer term comp lasting from spring intil winter using some fast growing deciduous material like a deshojo maple or Korean Hornbeam.. We'll bounce some ideas around on facebook for next year. </div>
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Finals for those local enough to fancy spending a day at a Bjorn Bjornholm demonstration day</div>
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we have a limited ticket chance coming up - currently there is room for up to 8 people to come </div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-21977300471223072032015-11-27T07:50:00.001-08:002015-11-27T07:50:07.044-08:00Black Friday madness and marketing hypeMmmmmm, Black Friday................<div><br></div><div>Mass marketing hysteria to drive sales by dumping excess stock ? In some cases yes, there is nothing wrong with getting rid of stock lines that are about to be discontinued or updated and improved in my mind, that makes sense to save ending up stuck with old stock.</div><div><br></div><div>Discounting existing current stock items to a high level.......why would you?....I can think of nothing more damaging to a brand than creating a special low price for a day, a week or a month.....yes you may create a little flush of sales but at the expense of margin....and sometimes sales special prices become virtually 'at cost' or if poorly thought out they could come at a loss when end of year taxes and overheads get factored in. All this is good for a few buyers of course and we all love a little bargain now and again but what a terrible damaging thing to do to your brand....</div><div><br></div><div>Fictitious Product X has a normal value of £10, the buyers who like it feel they receive value for money and are happy to pay the price.....most expect a little incentive to buy a larger amount or to buy at times of the year when they may not want it....10-15% discount gives the desired results......this is why we have all the bonsai fertilisers reduced over winter so people who know spring is round the corner can buy early and save money..........but to suddenly create a Black Friday price slash for product X and say " you lucky people.....we are selling are product for £5.00 !!"..... What message does it give to the regular buyers and to long term sales.....it devalues and damages the brand as you have indicated you can sell it for half what you were selling it for previously........</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5hZ2yo5aHu5hF6gFl1pDE3I-45x7k94HbPM9OlIi7TJGQNKcjLNu_r4xlMklk3s11DirU7QAkdy3XFqmnY9higAyX-KO-EcQOs2pUyII1CqvGzecfg4JB4itakhmwTca-HLGO2fcysy9/s640/blogger-image--352828587.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt5hZ2yo5aHu5hF6gFl1pDE3I-45x7k94HbPM9OlIi7TJGQNKcjLNu_r4xlMklk3s11DirU7QAkdy3XFqmnY9higAyX-KO-EcQOs2pUyII1CqvGzecfg4JB4itakhmwTca-HLGO2fcysy9/s640/blogger-image--352828587.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Today (Black Bonsai Friday) we woke up and discovered all our specimen bonsai were looking so good that they had increased in value by 20%........so we advise waiting until tomorrow to buy one! Then they will be back to the correct price, not stupidly devalued, but with a little room for some well meant haggling ! </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmRNuflSukx2HB_eqHUMTfTJCEmWwhJ-SiCYKtgHeKFjzodzOdmYA28ahyWuROFHEmNEMlvTEy4b27ghW0YTTNy-s_evYOgOTw0okNscXHDvHB7CAt-5LvVDAfyWSQpobmTlnTxY989S7G/s640/blogger-image-1421114875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmRNuflSukx2HB_eqHUMTfTJCEmWwhJ-SiCYKtgHeKFjzodzOdmYA28ahyWuROFHEmNEMlvTEy4b27ghW0YTTNy-s_evYOgOTw0okNscXHDvHB7CAt-5LvVDAfyWSQpobmTlnTxY989S7G/s640/blogger-image-1421114875.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihgDWhO89rCXFk08Ci32g-968U54ith9XbHjmD-cQoWUuW9uxBBRDJUh2hUUuLpClBEuW9K5NhxwUMiVfdI-coEEnyryQ2FYuyKWHdwkdpejdgLBvvHMDLyDUL_HU31OvVaYMSLuzUYqLB/s640/blogger-image--1351624545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihgDWhO89rCXFk08Ci32g-968U54ith9XbHjmD-cQoWUuW9uxBBRDJUh2hUUuLpClBEuW9K5NhxwUMiVfdI-coEEnyryQ2FYuyKWHdwkdpejdgLBvvHMDLyDUL_HU31OvVaYMSLuzUYqLB/s640/blogger-image--1351624545.jpg"></a></div><br></div><br></div><div><br></div><div>I think it's about seeing through the poorly thought out marketing ploys.......a few months ago I was getting bombarded on Facebook with a one week 35% sale.......then a week later we were told because it had been so successful that it had been extended for a few more weeks!? But the sale items were all so specific you could go online and view virtually all of them unsold.......do those <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">behind these ideas think people are daft? I spotted a new type of sale this week....it was "we have brand new stock so we are going to reduce the price of it all this month......?" All it means is the price has been set artificially high in the first place to create a fake sale price..</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">I guess if you want last years TV model at half price today is brilliant...last year I did just that with a TV just before Xmas as the new model was about to come out in the new year......£1000 saved and a half price telly.....but it's about being realistic and knowing what things are really worth and what you are willing to pay for them....</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Current fertiliser offers we have without hype;</span></div><div><br></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">Tibolar Sr fertiliser £17.50/kg (normally£19.95) until current stock sells out or Feb 2016 is reached</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">Bio gold Original £16.50 / 900gr ( normally £19.50). This is genuine Japanese sealed foil packs</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">Naruko japanese commercial fertiliser £9.00/ kg....this is rebadged from bulk sacks</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">250ml Bonsai Boost fish emulsion++ and the new BioKelp 2 for £10.00 ( normally £7.95 each) </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">There are about 15 bags of assorted Akadama, Kiryu grit and Ezo grit left.....3 for £40 on these until they are gone......</font></div><div><br></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1Peiq5t0CTUza_VWMr33_fdEJgga3D8k5gxS-ZpPfYTAE0Xo1Ls96fTVgOy5tmD9K0qpcBHtqRufM6XUkf4Y53mY-VtzLZfkmluzjnuTdJwMrwAj5IREHnqT2_OYPg_x4WQaGKoa0v0H/s640/blogger-image-627731215.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1Peiq5t0CTUza_VWMr33_fdEJgga3D8k5gxS-ZpPfYTAE0Xo1Ls96fTVgOy5tmD9K0qpcBHtqRufM6XUkf4Y53mY-VtzLZfkmluzjnuTdJwMrwAj5IREHnqT2_OYPg_x4WQaGKoa0v0H/s640/blogger-image-627731215.jpg"></a></div><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-13378572497894600472015-08-23T03:01:00.001-07:002015-08-23T03:01:26.232-07:00UK and Europe Autumn styling competitionAfter watching the excellent online styling competition run in the USA via the facebook group <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/322777847922605/?fref=ts" target="_blank">Bonsai Odyssey</a> I decided to source some good quality material that was as even and fair as possible and run a similar thing here for UK and European bonsai lovers.<br />
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<strong><u><span style="font-size: large;">The material</span></u></strong> <br />
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Now I've taken delivery of just over 20 Japanese imported Itoigawa junipers - all with nice curled and twisted trunks and with a lot of quality foliage nice and close to the trunk, plus a summer of extension growth to offer more styling options. These are super healthy, well fed trees that have great chunky trunks and I hand picked every tree to be as equal as you can with a living plant.<br />
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How it Works<br />
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We will supply by post a material tree to all contestants - they will all be sent out on the same day by courier. We will send to UK, Ireland and Europe *<br />
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Trees will be numbered, contestant names will go in a hat and I will pick up a tree, my wife will draw a name - I can't think of a fairer way to do it <br />
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The styling contest will run for one month so nobody needs to rush the job or worry if they are busy one weekend. I have waited until Autumn as junipers are better off not styled in summer. <br />
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The contest is open to all people of all bonsai experience.<br />
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The results will be judged based on photographs of the styled trees and will consider the styling, technique and overall image. Pictures from front, side, back and above will be needed to judge the tree to give the best impression of the 3 dimensional tree the contestant has created - we want to promote good all round bonsai rather than a flat tree created just for the camera.<br />
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There will be a group of judges invited to pick the winners - pictures will be sent to them as numbered anonymous files - I will co-ordinate the contest, organise the picture files etc and therefore not be one of the judges as I'll know who has styled each tree<br />
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The judges decision is final and will be based on the pictures supplied - ONLY the tree will be judged - If you chose to repot them (not required or recommended) the pot, stand, display etc will not count towards the judging process.<br />
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<strong><u>When ?</u></strong><br />
Trees will be sent out 28th/29th Sept<br />
Styling will be all of October<br />
Pictures must be in by 1st November at latest - judging will be completed within 1 week from closing date<br />
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<strong><u>How much will it cost ?</u></strong><br />
Entry costs £80.00 and included the tree and UK delivery charges<br />
* European contestants - due to increased delivery charges the fee is £90.00. <br />
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We are happy to send to all European Union countries -if you are from other international countries please check with me first if I can send you tree material - many will not officially allow shipment of bonsai although these trees have just cleared defra QT and have tested free from disease, pathogens, soil pests etc. <br />
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Payments by paypal to info@aqualabs.co.uk, or by credit/debit card over the phone 07855 300789 or by online bank transfer to Aqualabs business account - details on request<br />
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To make the contest work we need 10 or more people to enter - if entries fall short entry money will be refunded in full, or we can offer the option of sending out the trees anyway with a partial refund.<br />
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<strong><u>What do you win?</u></strong><br />
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For 10-14 contestants <br />
<strong>1st prize £100 to spend on any of our stock</strong> - <a href="mailto:Bonsai@16" target="_blank">Bonsai@16</a> has 210 trees in stock right now, copper wire, Aluminium wire, Tibolar SR, Biogold, Naruko, Fish Emulsion, Lime sulphur, You can chose prizes from the ebay shop, in person, or over the phone/by email or collect in person at the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/354119811432386/" target="_blank">Bonsai Europa15</a> event in Bury. <br />
<strong>2nd prize £50 to spend as above</strong><br />
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for 15+ contestants<br />
<strong>1st £120 to spend as above</strong><br />
<strong>2nd £60 to spend as above</strong><br />
<strong>3rd £30 to spend as above</strong><br />
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<strong>Contest is limited to the number of stock trees - 21 in total</strong><br />
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Results and further questions prior to the contest will be via the online facebook threads, or specific questions BEFORE the contest can be emailed or sent via messenger<br />
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Cheers for reading and good luck<br />
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Grown up junipers on the sales bench<br />
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-84979274710402404852015-05-29T08:57:00.001-07:002015-05-29T08:57:09.914-07:00the birds and the beesSlowly we are building up the bonsai collection here to offer more seasonal interest and to include some of the more unusual species.<div>
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The seasonal interest can come from spring foliage colour, flowers, fruits, autumn colour, a fine winter image etc but many of these trees need a little more work than the standard run of the mill species.</div>
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One tree I wanted for many years was an oriental bittersweet to add that splash of intense autumn / winter colour when the yellow pod opens to expose the bright red fruit in the center. On a visit to Saruyama Towers one day I found, and was able to aquire, two ! </div>
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Thanks to Peters advice it became apparent to get fruit the tree needs pollinating from a male of the species so one of these was procured as well....Now it all fell to timing - - the main tree is a beautiful large cascade and it started flowering weeks ago - the male though seemed to totally refuse to open any of the forming small green flowers...unbelievable ! a lady ready and the bloke doesn't want to play ball. I even put the trees together, entwining the two to see if the male would wake up....yesterday I saw the first male flowers open so now it is fingers crossed that the female flowers are still viable and havent been open too long</div>
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the small leaves are the female tree so ive put it under the males (there are two now, one in a small pot and one trained as a climber over the entrance gate to the bonsai area)</div>
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I hope this little fella has been saving his energy as there are 5-600 female flowers all very ripe and waiting ! </div>
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At least it is easy to tell the two sexes apart</div>
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Only time will tell if i've been successful - if so the green berries will form at the base of each flower, if not they just drop off and that's it for another year. </div>
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While doing a bit of online research I found this link and it is the same tree 2 years before <a href="http://saruyama.co.uk/at-last-a-little-sun-3/" target="_blank">undergoing a spray fertilisation</a>....</div>
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Hopefully the tree likes it with a real male as I fancy taking it to Noelanders in Jan 2016</div>
Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-66448861833855199812015-05-04T15:14:00.002-07:002015-05-04T15:14:42.080-07:00food for thoughtFor every one of our prized bonsai trees there is a bug, beast or pest that would love to eat them. Very few of them will kill a bonsai in a short period of time, but they will weaken the tree, set back a seasons growth or damage important branches that may be essential in the design. Attacks on conifers can cause inner foliage to be lost and this can be a problem on species that don't freely make new inner growth.<br />
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Here are some of the pests I've seen on bonsai during my travels, garden and nursery visits and sometimes here on the trees in the garden. Obviously we can't be blind to the fact flying and crawling pests may find our trees tasty and they can appear at any time. Regular inspection helps you understand what may or may not have set up home on your trees, although sometimes the pests are out of sight or very well hidden so a tree seeming sluggish, weak or slow to grow may be the clue you need.<br />
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SAP SUCKERS</div>
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Aphids</div>
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Here is the basic aphid - known as greenfly, black fly etc but can be orange, brown, red or white as well. A vigorous breeder that soon swamps soft new tips and leaves as spring growth occurs. They pierce the soft tissue and suck the sap - secondary problems are the residue they leave behind - it ends up attracting a black sooty mould that further weakens the tree. A tell tale sign of aphids as well as the creatures themselves is lots of ants on the tree - they like the sticky excretion and will farm / protect the aphids to keep the supply plentiful</div>
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sooty mould</div>
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Ladybirds eat aphids but in my observations the aphid can out breed the best efforts of a ladybird</div>
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There are many sprays and treatments ranging from water jets, soapy water, through to contact killing pesticides and systemic treatments that enter the tree and kill the aphid when it sucks the sap.</div>
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We often hear of trees having wooly aphids as white fluffy blobs are spotted in the foliage. On the underside of beech tree leaves is the only place I've seen the wooly aphid - it is usually a totally different pest mis-interpreted as the wooly </div>
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You need to look under the leaves to find these and also spray under the leaves if you are using a contact killing spray.</div>
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Adelgids</div>
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These white fluffy blobs are not wooly aphids but the pine bark adelgid. I see these all the time on Scots Pine bonsai - especially if they are kept too shaded or too protected . They spread very quickly through the needles and newly growing candles - they are sap suckers and weaken the tree and certainly effect back budding too. Needles discolour and drop prematurely and the tree turns a tired colour - loosing its vibrance. Contact sprays work best with washing up liquid and a little warm water to get through the waxy coating. Systemic sprays work from the inside of the tree but often the old fluffy husk needs washing off with a jet of water</div>
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This is a more unusual species of adelgid - that colonises spruce and hemlock - different species but same type of pest</div>
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Juniper scale insects</div>
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Like the adelgid I see these tiny white spots on junipers kept too protected from the elements - dark shade net, poly tunnels, over protection and poor airflow all can contribute to a weaker tree and I believe a weaker tree more susceptible to insect attacks. Sun or at least bright light, and excellent airflow reduce the likeleyhood of a tree becoming covered in these little pests</div>
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The hard shell protects the insect underneath so a systemic pesticide is usually the most effective treatment. They often appear as tiny white dots on the scales of chinensis type junipers - often 1mm or just over. A large outbreak will eventually cause browning of the foliage. </div>
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I've seen a much larger scale insect on chinese elms and hornbeams too - these get to 5mm across, usually dark brown. Effected trees will drop branches and will die back a lot if the pests are ignored</div>
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FOLIAGE EATERS</div>
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Pine sawfly Lavae</div>
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I only had one single larvae in the garden here and luckily it was spotted as the newly purchased Scots Pine was carried from the car to the bench. I have seen larger numbers of them on pine bonsai at a nursery in the past where lots of bonsai pines were in relatively close proximity to commercial plantations so I think this is a pest you are more likely to buy in than have in high numbers in the average garden. They are incredibly voracious - chewing off rows and rows of needles virtually daily and if allowed to go unchecked they will cause branch dieback once all the needles are gone. Easy to find - they wiggle about a lot and the pine shoots become stripped of needles</div>
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Vine beetle</div>
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This is an important one to spot - it is the feeding of the beetle stage of vine weevils. The adults eat leaves, then they lay eggs in the pot that become the root eating weevils. One adult lays about 10 eggs so it doesnt take long to become a problem. Trees slow right down on growth, lack in vigour and often end up with a poor colour. As we bring in so many trees from many places to the garden I treat everything with a systemic vine weevil killer. If you can kill the beetle while it is eating the leaves you wont get the grubs eating the roots - to me thats the best way to protect against these damaging pests.</div>
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The adult beetle</div>
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The root eating grub</div>
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Garden center material can be full of grubs - some nurseries also seem to have high numbers of grubs in the pots so I regularly treat all the new stock arriving in my garden. To get the most from a systemic treatment we make up a deep bath of pesticide and submerge the entire pot. This saturates the soil and penetrates all parts of the rootball. It kills on contact and continues to give 3-4 months protection systemically. The same stuff kills off the sap suckers too</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdCOA8_r-TlFw1vQEvpc8Fu-EI_q9RlVUKk5mcGX0BVNsGyVWNX5mjgkqqydOnro69mR_cIbeQYQvXKohDGYBnhEOsqP5hJXC3ELT13Vq8PowsiKxGkqMy2POYy2vTMNmzbgOBtMUJtDVY/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdCOA8_r-TlFw1vQEvpc8Fu-EI_q9RlVUKk5mcGX0BVNsGyVWNX5mjgkqqydOnro69mR_cIbeQYQvXKohDGYBnhEOsqP5hJXC3ELT13Vq8PowsiKxGkqMy2POYy2vTMNmzbgOBtMUJtDVY/s640/024.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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It may cost £20 to make up the dip but it treats every tree here - after every pot up to 24" is dipped I use the left over liquid poured onto the larger pots. </div>
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At least we know the trees living here and leaving here are as pest free as we can manage</div>
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CATERPILLARS</div>
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Most caterpillars are loners and do very little damage to bonsai - eating holes in a few leaves etc</div>
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There is one that seems to reach epidemic levels though and it rolls itself up in the leaves </div>
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They seem to love Azaleas and will eat into flower buds too, causing the bloom to abort or be misshaped. I've seen them bunch up larch foliage, pine needles and roll up a great many different leaves. The small brown moth lays the eggs at the base of the tree and the hatched grubs crawl up into the foliage to feed. If you spray the trees in late summer with water in the evening the moths will be disturbed and start flying about - its a good way to see if they are around. </div>
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There are other pests like spruce mites, spider mites and no end of others but in my travels they appear to be very rare and unusual - this post is about the common ones so people know what they are seeing if a bonsai gets a pest attack. </div>
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I know there are many ways to treat pests, I need effective and long lasting solutions so tend to rely on systemic / contact combination products - these will usually work long enough to kill the adults and the hatching grubs from any eggs that have been layed. We need this type of product due to the amount of trees that may be here at times, and in the long term we use a lot less chemical in the garden</div>
Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-10138409063394291072015-05-01T14:11:00.000-07:002015-05-02T01:02:34.188-07:00Maple work begins<br />
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Spring has well and truly arrived and the maples leafed out a good few weeks ago. I keep all the acers here fully outdoors all winter, on the benches as this keeps them dormant as long as possible so they don't become a problem leafing out while the weather is still too cold. We all know the basic first task of letting the first pair of leaves open and then get in and nip out the emerging extension shoot before it gets too long. This is fairly standard to keep the internodes short and to direct energy to weaker inner shoots.</div>
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The tree above was fully defoliated last year as it had developed all the growth on the branch ends and very little inner growth. This had actually occurred in Japan as the tree was imported winter 2013 but it was overdue a repot and had got a bit weak. Following an excellent repotting at my supplier the tree stayed healthy so I added it too our stock here soon after. Mid summer 2014 I removed every leaf which triggered buds everywhere including all over the trunk which was handy as I want to add more branches to the future design. This is not a thing to do too often on a Palmatum, and I only hold total defoliation back for specific trees that need rebuilding from the inside.</div>
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Starting 3 weeks ago the centre shoots were pinched out each day as the tree responded to the warm weather and sunny days. I only do this to the strong vigorous areas and let the weak inner shoots extend if they have the energy to do so.</div>
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This is just the first part of the spring maple work as the precious inner buds and weak shoots need light or they will be shaded out and die off but we can't just chop off the outer leaves or the tree responds as if defoliated and opens more buds. </div>
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<b> We cut of one leaf from every outer and strong pair</b></div>
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By doing this half the leaves are removed from the outer canopy, halving the shading and increasing light penetration to the inner tree</div>
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Doing this is nothing but a benefit to the tree and doesn't effect the overall image either</div>
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Here is a spare branch showing pre pruning</div>
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And now one of every two leaves are pruned off</div>
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This allows more light in to the inner and lower parts of the tree</div>
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Later in the year the tree may still appear too shaded as the leaves harden off and inner growth strengthens. There is one further string to our bow to continue letting in more light and that is to cut each remaining leaf in half. This still will not trigger the dormant buds to open ( we don't want them triggered) but it will let the maximum amount of light into the tree......</div>
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Remember we are improving the winter image, we don't really worry about the tree in summer and it is fine to have it covered in half leaves by late summer. Maples in spring are lovely but soon after become a big mop of leaves and turn into shapeless domes that then loose all inner shoots and look rubbish in winter. A little pruning and thinning now ensures a fantastic winter image tree to enjoy. </div>
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Subtle changes that improve the health and quality of the tree but it doesn't ruin the overal enjoyment of a maple in leaf. This is the perfect time to do any wiring needed too, so a few branches were wired and guyed as required </div>
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This stunning mid sized tree is available for sale </div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-83604637609073115252015-04-19T09:30:00.000-07:002015-04-19T09:30:18.661-07:00Repotting 3 - Real time videoOne of our new additions - a large specimen Japanese Acer Palmatum - is up for the repotting treatment today so I set up the video camera to record the process in real time and share it here<br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CZ1P8rSbai8/0.jpg" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CZ1P8rSbai8?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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The Tibolar fertiliser pellets in NPK 4:6:2 were put in the pot and the trimmed root pad sat on top of them - this method gives the tree an incredible boost in recovering from the root pruning and potting as the organic feed is breaking down into useable compounds while the new root tips are forming - the tree can then continue the uptake of nutrients far quicker and I'm seeing great recovery on the trees repotted so far this year. We are offering the feed via the ebay shop in stand up pouches and buckets from £4.99 - £19.50<br />
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tibolar-bonsai-fertiliser-13-6-2-/261832968230?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Tibolar 1k</a>g 13:6:2</div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tibolar-bonsai-fertiliser-4-6-2-/261832967635?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Tibolar 1kg 4:6:2</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tibolar-RS-bonsai-fertiliser-13-6-2-/261853656313?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Tibolar 450 gram 13:6:2</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tibolar-RS-bonsai-fertiliser-4-6-2-/261853655033?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Tibolar 450 gram 4:6:2</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tibolar-RS-bonsai-fertiliser-13-6-2-200gr-Pouch-/261853658313?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Tibolar 200 gram 13:6:2</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tibolar-RS-bonsai-fertiliser-4-6-2-/261853657224?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Tibolar 200 gram 4:6:2</a></div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-78213095029272869632015-03-22T12:37:00.002-07:002015-03-22T12:37:45.365-07:00repotting - day 2Following on from yesterday we carried on this morning with the bonsai work.<br />
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Main job of the day was to repot the juniper I took to a Mark Noelanders workshop last year. It was a leaning / slanting tree that I was never totally convinced by - hence taking it to the workshop.<br />
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It was the first time I'd worked with Mark and it was the right choice as I'd looked at the tree for too long to see a different style but he instantly wanted it far more upright and tilted forward. We did the usual and put the pot on wedges to do a first styling and, upon getting home I kept the tree propped up at the preferred angle until re-potting time was here.<br />
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This tree has a funny history really - selected in Japan by Danny Use of Ginko Bonsai Center it arrived potted like this.........................<br />
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The tree was sold to Newstead Bonsai Center in the Uk and restyled like this....................</div>
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This is the 2010 Newstead show</div>
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I bought it like this...........................</div>
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and did a rather un-adventurous styling like this - I did re-pot to tilt the tree forward so we could see more trunk width and a nicer view of the deadwood / live vein. This was the design we took the tree to the Welsh National bonsai show with. </div>
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After this I let the tree grow, Peter Warren gave it a good thin out one day and I just spent a couple of years learning how to stop it flowering (and also what makes the tree flower - bad for junipers if you want to refine them with nice neat foliage) </div>
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Today was repotting time..................it meant the root ball was going to change a lot - half of it would be removed at least ...if not it would be mounded up in an ugly lump sticking out of the soil and I hate seeing a bonsai that has had the angle changed look like this. It is a waste of the next few years as you are leaving all the wrong roots on the tree - better to be confident, get as many as possible into the pot at the correct level and cut the rest off - and it is a juniper - they grow so easily from cuttings so loosing half the roots wont make the slightest difference - (you could loose a lot more and the tree would recover ok) </div>
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I had a nice old pot Tokoname sat here empty too</div>
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At the back a lot of root tips were cut off and exposed to the air so I covered these with a little fresh sphagnum moss to stop the rest of the tree losing moisture from the cuts</div>
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And now the tree can settle until Autumn - the foliage was only rough styled as it was a one day session with lots of socialising but its all in roughtly the right places until the next wiring and styling is due</div>
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I smile when I see the tree much closer to where it was when it left Japan all those years ago ! Funny old game this bonsai lark </div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-28812222523072994642015-03-21T11:15:00.000-07:002015-03-21T11:15:17.851-07:00Repotting marathon 1<div style="text-align: center;">
Spring is here - trees are budding out and many are in need of repotting. Some were trees we had last year that were getting difficult to water properly as the root balls compacted and the water started running off. Others were new trees we've got in that were in need of attention, some were trees in the wrong pots and some are customer trees that have come in to be repotted.</div>
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The Fagus crenata was in a small unsuitable pot used for import and it was difficult to water last year due to the large spreading plate nebari. I bought a large hawthorn because it was in a very nice japanese blue oval pot that looked a much better option for the beech</div>
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The roots are ok, soil is a bit dark and compact so I've washed off as much as possible with a hose</div>
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The pot is prepared with mesh, 2.5mm aluminium wires and a soil mix of Akadama, Kiryu and ezo grit. Then a sprinkle of Tibolar fertiliser pellets NPK 4:6:2 are added to sit the tree on..;-)</div>
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The tree is balanced on a couple of canes to check position and fit as it saves disturbing the soil and pellets if more pruning is needed - all seems fine so in it goes</div>
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The tree has a bit more room and depth to increase vigour - now it will sit on the shaded side of the garden to recover</div>
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Next up a big tree ! Taxus cuspidata that is going to fit into the Aspinal pot in the background</div>
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I've been working on this tree 3 or maybe 4 years now and its coming along quite well - the current pot lets me pick it up easily now too. The Ezo grit is a great ingredient for big trees - it is very light so moving the trees is a bit easier.</div>
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Next up was a tree bought a few months ago that was in totally the wrong pot. A kashima (or maybe kotohime?) clump acer in a massive Walsall Ceramics pot - its a lovely pot but not for any acer as it is 6" deep. </div>
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This tree was incredibly heavy to get round onto the benches and once I got it out of the pot it was easy to see why..........pea shingle drainage layer and granite grit with compost. I'm really glad the tree needed repotting straight away as cold wet heavy soil like this is about the worst thing to put a bonsai in.</div>
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Now for some epic root reduction !!!!</div>
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Heavy woody roots are all cut off and every root growing downwards from under the fused plated underside of the nebari is cut off too. Now we are close to a flat fibrous pad - just a bit more off from all over</div>
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Now we have a maple in a proper maple pot</div>
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And here is the contrast between the 2 pots</div>
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Maples are happy when dry so there is no point making the job harder by using big deep pots and cold wet soil mixes. This tree needs some wiring and pruning soon - I'll give it a week or 2 to settle in though</div>
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Along with these I got a big hawthorn, a Rosemary, an Alder and 15 small acer clumps done !!</div>
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Hands are frozen now but back to it tomorrow</div>
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Rosemary in my first Stone Monkey pot</div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-64433932478783051272015-01-20T14:24:00.000-08:002015-01-20T14:24:22.150-08:00and they fly the nest.............This week a friend who is building up a collection of very nice acer bonsai found that persistence can certainly pay off....in the nicest way....He often asked if my Shin Deshojo was for sale, and I often said I could not find an equal replacement so No, it was one of the trees I was keeping..........<br />
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Over new year greetings the request came through so I thought why not, he really wants the tree, would totally appreciate it and I have had a good few years fun and enjoyment bringing the tree on so we did the deal and I dropped it round - 1200 miles from my home !!!! Posting trees is ok, but trees you really care about need face to face service as it would be such a dis-service to the bonsai if it was broken by an unknowing courier or unprecedented accident. The car was loaded with the tree, pots, bags of our soil blend, fish emulsion, bonsai boost pellets and a few accessories - plus Relentless and blueberry Red Bull </div>
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Shin Deshojo, imported in an unknown year, and I stumbled across the tree walking into Willowbog Bonsai Nursery on day.</div>
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The tree had been hit by late freezing winds so had defoliated itself in most areas so even though it was July we had a new crop of red leaves, much smaller than normal, but with random big leaves from the first flush. We fed the tree, enjoyed it and waited until the next spring to repot so the mound of root under the trunk could be reduced and the planting position gradually flattened out. The tree was the same width all the way up so I decided to grow the lower branches wider rather than prune the apex narrower so we used a much bigger growing pot for 2 years</div>
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This caused a push of vigour that needed checking so the next repot put the tree in a stunning Japanese Tokoname cream oval barely 3cm deep inside</div>
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Deshojo are run away growers and will extend node length to 5cm or more in the blink of an eye and this is too big a gap between buds when fine tuning a tree really so the shallow pot and small amount of feed plus correct watering (minimal) helps to shorten node length. Now the outline was getting closer to my desired image the first leaves were allowed to open then the tiny new shoot that appears was pinched out to stop all extension growth on the exterior of the tree. Inner, weaker, shoots are allowed to grow and the bottom branches are allowed a small amount of extra extension growth too. Later in summer one from every two outer leaves is cut off to halve the shade effect of the canopy and if the single remaining leaf is still too big it is cut in half</div>
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This is a constant ongoing process but the unplanned sale of the tree has finished my time with the tree and moved it to another person to do their thing from now on. I offered the tree with or without the pot but both have stayed together and now will love the pure clean air in the foothills of the Austrian mountains<br />
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Bye bye to the unit for a few days ! </div>
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SOIL MIXING</div>
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Repotting time is nearly here - Cornwall. SW UK is a little bit milder than the rest of Britain and we dont get much in the way of frost - we have sensors on the bonsai benches and so far this winter we had one night of minus 2 and one night of minus 4 but either side of these two clear nights it has been plus temps. Days have been hitting 15 C regularly, roots are active and early acer buds and larch buds are swelling visibly now. </div>
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We stock all the essential soil components and also, if the customer needs enough of one mix we offer to blend them to suit the tree collection and predominant climate. The key points of getting the soil mix right are correct water retention, good aeration, soil PH can be important too</div>
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We use</div>
Akadama - 2 line, hard type, holds onto water well<br />
Kiyru Grit - allows hard feeding, drains well, heavy component<br />
Ezo Grit - superb light, warm airy grit - drains well, superb root development<br />
Kanuma - acidic lightweight volcanic grit - soft, holds lots of water<br />
Black Lava - very hard, will not compact or breakdown in hard frost, drains well, contains lots of minerals and some trace elements<br />
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We dont use<br />
Compost (apart from our chinese elm mix - they like a bit)<br />
garden soil / leaf mould<br />
Bark - depleates nitrogen making balanced feeding difficult to measure<br />
granite chips / potting grit - freezing cold, very heavy, can be silica based<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbzt8WoQnBbSQRg4ytD9faL9fJkQsB3iJu_azok85C27HJKBoKXeUTp3TUI0a7LBrwRCJvEa4aRRg1hFnoB7SIWaZw3tsDeu8o7pfLl_BAs34KzMdnNu97LxNexTeRNM9Q8L_bkZ7OEcz/s1600/015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbzt8WoQnBbSQRg4ytD9faL9fJkQsB3iJu_azok85C27HJKBoKXeUTp3TUI0a7LBrwRCJvEa4aRRg1hFnoB7SIWaZw3tsDeu8o7pfLl_BAs34KzMdnNu97LxNexTeRNM9Q8L_bkZ7OEcz/s1600/015.JPG" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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80 liters are best done in a proper mixer - less effort and nice consistent results<br />
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Akadama is £12.50 a bag, the others £14. Blended is £14 a bag too - (Collected) - Next day courier delivery to mainland Uk is competitive and can be quoted for.<br />
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First and foremost I am a bonsai enthusiast and I love nothing more than hunting out mature japanese trees that can be refined so selling one of the good ones from my personal trees leaves a gap that I need to fill. As a maple went I wanted another to replace it, and I know there are no Deshojo's available that come close to the sold one so I broadened the search a little and came up with a 13 trunk fused clump style Acer Palmatum Yatsusa Kashima<br />
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Earlier this year we sold the 5 trunk Kiyohime clump that appears in the late Peter Adams maple book and also in Dan Bartons bonsai book from when he owned the tree. The kiyohime has dwarf tendencies in its extension growth and is weaker in the apex but grows very strongly from the base branches so they go wide but stay low<br />
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The Kashima can appear very similar in leaf and extension growth but it grows like most trees - strong apical and upward growth and weaker in the lower areas.<br />
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Here was the find - it has been maintained in a healthy state for about 25-30 yrs in the UK, maybe a bit longer than that now but the tree has not been wired or styled for a long time. The top strength and upward tendencies can easily be seen here, the pot is way too heavy too but I have a good Tokoname cream oval - 4.5cm deep- ready for a fairly hard repot in a month or so.<br />
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Lots of guy wires will then go on, outer branches will be flattened with normal wiring and then some areas will be cut back harder to put a tree shaped silhouette back rather than a mushroom dome. The trunks need cleaning, the nebari cleaning out and defining and then the foliage pruning begins<br />
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The tree will be fed well with Tribolar pellets - 2 applications and a 14 day cycle of using our fish emulsion after the leaves harden off until they just start to turn for Autumn. Hard feeding is essential on a tree if you plan on cutting losts off but keeping it strong and healthy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibIXRhA0pg6c_KMBxp3Cqu1U-2tden4JoUDh5ogzXa4XWTlUkizvo-aLLJYny4lGZTPeYym9_qjLwGHtKE7QMMDgxwWge6DSxI9GQzNjr0ZJ9t59m6RnZKxPz0UeYLA0qt4_Y7_Qhza-uy/s1600/002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibIXRhA0pg6c_KMBxp3Cqu1U-2tden4JoUDh5ogzXa4XWTlUkizvo-aLLJYny4lGZTPeYym9_qjLwGHtKE7QMMDgxwWge6DSxI9GQzNjr0ZJ9t59m6RnZKxPz0UeYLA0qt4_Y7_Qhza-uy/s1600/002.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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A 2nd maple will be here soon - a large trident maple with 5 trunks that are rising from a fused plate the size of the pot nearly. This tree it a 'start again' project........it has a documented history from 1910 but is now tired and gone beyond simple recovery - health is fine, the branches are long leggy things with twigs on the very end so i'm going to bang in the fertiliser (Tribolar, fish emulsion, algae & seaweed extract and a couple of special compounds) then cut off most of the branches and grow them again - A great project as you cant find tridents with such age and maturity to import anymore, and even if an equally old but refined japanese tree came onto the market it would command quite a price.<br />
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The project is at least 5-6 yrs to see even half a result though<br />
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Pics to come once the tree gets here<br />
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Other than that it was lovely and sunny in the garden today - white pine that needs styling seems happy with good winter colour, Zelkova to the right and a true yamadori Japanese juniper trunk grafted with Itoigawa foliage ready for a first refine session after a workshop with Ryan Neil a few years ago to give it its first styling from raw material. Plenty to do !!<br />
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-76803941138921327882014-12-12T00:55:00.004-08:002014-12-12T00:55:55.198-08:00The Crenata Chronicles IIIContinuing our work with the Japanese White barked Beech bonsai it is time to do some basic early winter prep work<br />
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As we want to see the structure of the tree, assess the ramification and do some work all the brown leaves are removed. Now we can see just how dirty the trunk has become over the Autumn. Dirt, fertiliser residues and green algae make it all look a mess<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqIn-_IwSnaBFfKKPXlKz2NkXL9oMusuwd68M8FWx9bnXXIeTxXAa8R01AVAxqBwGIPIk2MQjzubzlaabyTVte9mjDdY0uR8B1o848kn1_ogs-zMOW1v_7Fi48IJHl7Dn-r6FJi9FQdbS/s1600/IMG_0329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqqIn-_IwSnaBFfKKPXlKz2NkXL9oMusuwd68M8FWx9bnXXIeTxXAa8R01AVAxqBwGIPIk2MQjzubzlaabyTVte9mjDdY0uR8B1o848kn1_ogs-zMOW1v_7Fi48IJHl7Dn-r6FJi9FQdbS/s1600/IMG_0329.JPG" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
As we can see the tree is in serious need of a good clean - - and at the top of the picture is a small side branch coming across the trunk . . .it should be cut off but we'll se if it can be moved first.<br />
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Trunk cleaning is down to some water and vinegar and some plastic bristled brushes. Start at the top, work down and then wash the whole tree with hard spray from a hosepipe.<br />
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All scrubbed, now the branch.........</div>
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The old stub is removed, hollowed and the edges cleaned up with a sharp knife</div>
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Two 3.0 mm copper wires are placed in the curve, temporarily held with wire while they are wrapped with raffia and plastic tape. This is a backbone for the branch we hope to move and being coper wire it will actually hold the bend in place</div>
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Twin copper 2mm wires are put on for added protection to the outside of the bendand the branch that was crossing the trunk now goes the right way ! </div>
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All exposed bits of the cut are sealed and I quickly worked up the tree adding a few guy wires and wiring a few branches that were starting to creep up at the tips</div>
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Finished tree - repotting planned for spring, I want to boost the vigor as the next stage is to massively increase the number of shoots and to thicken some new branches that are just thin new shoots coming out of the trunk. This tree has a stunning nebari - it would have been airlayered in japan over 30 years ago to be this mature.</div>
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Tree wired in copper - its all i use on every tree - Because we produce all our own annealed wire fresh in small batches it is lovely and soft to put on, and because we do it in half kilo rolls you dont get stuck with old rolls of hard wire - (it stiffens up over time and not many people use up full kilos very fast). The copper is so much thinner to do the same job as aluminium so the tree looks better, the job looks neater and as we dont really have any price difference there is no reason to use an inferior wire. </div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-89147602886811438812014-11-18T09:21:00.000-08:002014-11-18T09:28:58.171-08:00Pot resurectionWe've been looking for a pot for the large Japanese yew I have here for a year or two now as the tree is getting close to ready for it. This particular pot is a Dereck Aspinall pot that has had a fairly hard life with a previous owner but it was the ideal size, colour and shape for the tree so I decided to buy it a few months ago.<br />
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Most damage was to the feet where all the edges are chipped off - this comes from sliding the pots around on the benches, tables or in your vehicle and is a commonly seen form of damage. I see it a lot on European pots and less so on Japanese pots so I suspect the clay used or the techniques in manufacture may have something to do with it, but that is a bit of guess work based on observations.<br />
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First thing was to clean the pot well and assess all the damage<br />
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There are several chips in the rim too, both inside and out - the pot certainly has had an active previous life but I'd had a good look at it a few months before deciding to get it so none were surprises. </div>
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First job after washing and drying was to rough up the edges with a file, then apply an exterior 2 part epoxy filler</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pMtM1IzrqLhX6TpKs0DmaDHobimds5mtWcH9Q8E16RvlNfXIbG_UDWFFA3hCuravjhXxm8K8x3SAd6mpT5GR6k4IfdbFG0tHL7QaivfAN-bIqKVJ6VY01rdiD0_xowdHZXQ1zNL1x0vQ/s1600/042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_pMtM1IzrqLhX6TpKs0DmaDHobimds5mtWcH9Q8E16RvlNfXIbG_UDWFFA3hCuravjhXxm8K8x3SAd6mpT5GR6k4IfdbFG0tHL7QaivfAN-bIqKVJ6VY01rdiD0_xowdHZXQ1zNL1x0vQ/s1600/042.JPG" height="592" width="640" /></a></div>
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I left this for 24hrs in the warm and the next day began gently sanding with very fine wet and dry sand paper. Following the sanding I mixed a colour match from my paints, and gave the areas 2 coats, followed by an ink wash to blend it and finally a sealing coat. The entire pot was oiled and left to dry for a week in the warm. I'm very pleased with the results and will certainly plant the taxus cuspidata in the spring. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSoZkLyczthkkGl5wi9V3Wzm-RVvPY0KUavD0lFFAz4mo4n8sPEYT9XmgYL6-c1nXvK8-iDXX6hCeT0Bxc92z8CAM4_fSZzSG4GlzZ6jNyYnzzBAK1SYOONU1d5CGhW0syHu386bZsA0B/s1600/047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSoZkLyczthkkGl5wi9V3Wzm-RVvPY0KUavD0lFFAz4mo4n8sPEYT9XmgYL6-c1nXvK8-iDXX6hCeT0Bxc92z8CAM4_fSZzSG4GlzZ6jNyYnzzBAK1SYOONU1d5CGhW0syHu386bZsA0B/s1600/047.JPG" height="552" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLDvbEZlMomYR5681D523jRvo39j0JXunrLRa-myuM6YaktoumjH8ijZp3DFXKWkcEI9NBALy7WduXZd0YlWGviYbIHY6V_m6MPlTxraePSO71Xpg5qTAfi0-aX-poD5BmlbmUDczGDmE/s1600/046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLDvbEZlMomYR5681D523jRvo39j0JXunrLRa-myuM6YaktoumjH8ijZp3DFXKWkcEI9NBALy7WduXZd0YlWGviYbIHY6V_m6MPlTxraePSO71Xpg5qTAfi0-aX-poD5BmlbmUDczGDmE/s1600/046.JPG" height="484" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here we have a lovely UK made pot back in its prime </div>
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Dereck Aspinall - Soft Rectangle - unglazed, 23" x 16" x 5"<br />
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-57513974385803936412014-09-27T08:02:00.001-07:002014-09-27T08:02:48.927-07:00Ramification Pt 1Autumn is nearly here and the leaves are starting to drop on many trees, letting us see clearly how the summer growth effected or improved the ramification of our deciduous bonsai.<br />
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I enjoy experimenting a bit with bonsai methods and I find quite a lot that many recommendations in books are not that specific, at best are generalised and often don't work that well in our climate. The first year I had the Zelcova broom I followed the book method - cutting extending growth back to a few leaves, total defoliation of the outer half of the canopy in early summer and then pruning back the new shoots to a few leaves. This was an incredibly labour intensive way to look after the tree - the defoliating alone took nearly 7 hrs in total and the results were perfectly ok, the inner leaves stayed green etc.<br />
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This year I wanted to do what felt right, so I decided to treat the pruning differently.<br />
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First cut was made as the new shoots are opening and extending while they still were soft and red. This cut was back to one or at most 2 leaves over the whole outer canopy. In effect this stopped all extension growth.<br />
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The pruned shoots changed from red to woody, the remaining leaved continued to grow a bit and they hardened off. Now I cut all these leaves in half just like a beech or palmatum so lots of light could penetrate past the outer canopy and reach the inner tree. This gave a huge advantage as the terminal buds have stayed dormant - (defoliating makes them open and the tree outline gets bigger). Over the rest of the year I've just cut any strong shoots that extend past the outline and thats it.<br />
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The picture shows the tree from underneath - all the leaves inside the tree are perfectly green and it is amazing to see the whole tree is full of living inner shoots - quite funny when another bonsai 'expert' was overheard at a show saying this tree would have no ramification under the dense outer canopy of leaves ! haha.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeC_6SGOpA6y1_L8lU7ENJ1giOdAtA3GDDzhMSy7Pd2BwD5tEyhpHcUL0i70R6pseTjgYMzfH4ZAHosY8H3NfnmRZxnntfPdOpI8TmKWj5oVQkFrxrui4aJeiCWFN0o_EQiu1XSpFTtMvv/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeC_6SGOpA6y1_L8lU7ENJ1giOdAtA3GDDzhMSy7Pd2BwD5tEyhpHcUL0i70R6pseTjgYMzfH4ZAHosY8H3NfnmRZxnntfPdOpI8TmKWj5oVQkFrxrui4aJeiCWFN0o_EQiu1XSpFTtMvv/s1600/001.JPG" height="486" width="640" /></a></div>
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Proof of the pudding - I've never had a deciduous tree reach Oct with this many perfectly healthy leaves on it from virtually the trunk to the outside.</div>
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Feeding has been our Bonsai boost pellets - 2 baskets at a time but only 3 times all year....and our fish emulsion about 12-15 times after pruning. No feed was put on before the leaves were cut in half.</div>
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This pic shows how we've kept the whole tree open and airy all year - this has let loads of light in </div>
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Tree was repotted to a better front this year too</div>
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And the music..............<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/hsCdlX-5UjE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<br />Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-90803722641779468922014-08-23T09:03:00.000-07:002014-08-23T09:03:12.555-07:00Doing our bit<br />
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Following being nominated by fellow bonsai friend Jim from Scotland here is my challenge<br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10204656030790803" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10204656030790803</a><br />
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We were away from home so had to improvise quickly at the inlaws ! While having fun it is also important to remember this is to raise awareness and money for charities close to your heartMarcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-40893106049980574782014-08-10T15:33:00.001-07:002014-08-10T15:33:18.425-07:00The wonderful bonsai merry-go-round<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Bonsai is never static - the trees evolve, the people on the scene change - some give up, some change direction and newcomers are always finding the hobby. Our collections will often reflect this too - maturing, evolving, improving hopefully and usually increasing in size ! pun intended</div>
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Obviously we have the small but growing (oh stop it, your killing me) bonsai sales side to our business and this is now very much entwined into my personal tree collection. It was 27yrs ago I bought a £5.99 chinese elm - then a month later a £35 elm, then a slightly bigger elm............that was it, hooked...many changes, houses, wives, friends, experiences....all different - but that 3rd elm is still here ......</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2z0-TqLt15d4GoX73-_CdGpaNModg-PBoP_TKLDY5KgL53LKOL3kEOmP1kQaHd43EF-u0f5C_vE7cjiyOyInW4gYflmqD7iajUcYrwZ8abgYHTgNxP97jhVvFuK9XyfP4BYMSOr-Oy9QX/s1600/001596x800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2z0-TqLt15d4GoX73-_CdGpaNModg-PBoP_TKLDY5KgL53LKOL3kEOmP1kQaHd43EF-u0f5C_vE7cjiyOyInW4gYflmqD7iajUcYrwZ8abgYHTgNxP97jhVvFuK9XyfP4BYMSOr-Oy9QX/s1600/001596x800.jpg" height="320" width="270" /></a></div>
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This was the tree back then - another house, another life - blimey a bottle of 0:10:10, not my kind of approach these days - chemical fertilisers that are also unbalanced, no thanks. The grey mica pot still here too - a pot that has established many trees since</div>
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Human nature (mine anyway) is to push hard, aim to improve and to grab an opportunity when you can even if it means some sacrifices - bonsai is a great hobby to fit this ethos as there is always a desirable tree out there, a better example of a tree you may have or sometimes material that has to be secured if at all possible. Luckily we also have our personal tree collection as currency so upgrading is often easier as the tree you may have at home will be someone elses bonsai of desire - they then make a few sacrifices to get it and the merry-go-round turns another bit.</div>
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Last week the chance to buy a substantial tree arose - it has pedigree and has been seen and photographed / filmed by visitors to Masahiko Kimuras garden over quite a few years - A slanting planting of Hinoki cypress - here is a pic of my friend with the tree in the background</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4i53R08E7X0QIX8RFBsJ-GnyKyFVEwxoP6zKM05Mevr9pDYQjY7X1C7Xyvf__ktP_yZEyVJmOuMZRVFA0pA87lRItPB8ZFQK1j2ihue0CCmka_v0ull6AD7QMy0hFGqNrSm7l2Kska5x/s1600/022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4i53R08E7X0QIX8RFBsJ-GnyKyFVEwxoP6zKM05Mevr9pDYQjY7X1C7Xyvf__ktP_yZEyVJmOuMZRVFA0pA87lRItPB8ZFQK1j2ihue0CCmka_v0ull6AD7QMy0hFGqNrSm7l2Kska5x/s1600/022.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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So now the challenging bit - buying it !</div>
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We are all now probably fed up with 'Sales'. the word means nothing on the high street or in the super stores as they run one into another and the sale price is the full price anyway. But the only way to move closer to the object of desire was to offer some good trees up for sale to a few people who would really appreciate them, at a price that was very fair and good enough to ensure they didn't dither about - I said "you snooze you lose" last week to one friend - and the guys who stayed very on the ball have achieved a few of there own objects of desire</div>
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To get even halfway close to the goal I put up for sale some of my nice trees and used the method I find works - i offered more nice trees up than I wanted to sell, let fate decide which ones went and which ones stayed. It took about 8 days until i called halt as the right trees were going to new owners - some will be maintained as they are, some will continue to be changed and refined but most important all will be appreciated</div>
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It was bye bye and onto pastures new for:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RGXeFfeQOIYpBeC5eg3h2MIvk4Ws0hR5exOh6Qc6G3luVX9aMGpPxaW3X8T9of8y3heEXa93gfopJtwQ7zAbHXcV5sUbpf2rZRHcsFUBdb4YmL-FAu9MLZjwCfMQQuPqqLRusPwdDydD/s1600/014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RGXeFfeQOIYpBeC5eg3h2MIvk4Ws0hR5exOh6Qc6G3luVX9aMGpPxaW3X8T9of8y3heEXa93gfopJtwQ7zAbHXcV5sUbpf2rZRHcsFUBdb4YmL-FAu9MLZjwCfMQQuPqqLRusPwdDydD/s1600/014.JPG" height="400" width="362" /></a></div>
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The Hinoki.......</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vp2ZJ2NpL0wQKBHeyFZQI2jsRLhutloOvoVD70bLBnn0KKZvvQ08kVSTdryC7vMTRNmLoe8yx0kt6lNVURVV1ulG14XhzJKPS-5qZzFtiuV13dxhwC7g5YluuWROUKmJrkM9wFLMXRwv/s1600/004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vp2ZJ2NpL0wQKBHeyFZQI2jsRLhutloOvoVD70bLBnn0KKZvvQ08kVSTdryC7vMTRNmLoe8yx0kt6lNVURVV1ulG14XhzJKPS-5qZzFtiuV13dxhwC7g5YluuWROUKmJrkM9wFLMXRwv/s1600/004.JPG" height="545" width="640" /></a></div>
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A lovely firethorn from Taisho-en Nursery</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKZmjD8GRF5Tlqu5ka1V78NyrK0yIpqk3gDLSEYatpZNDM7W9ytqBQiWkVtSQf37bk2pSCIBR24pZml6xwpo51VePjw1YkdueaXBncgKLgC3MaiqSVFCP8tVL4aHmg2dBzmr4NmTOSJuO/s1600/002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKZmjD8GRF5Tlqu5ka1V78NyrK0yIpqk3gDLSEYatpZNDM7W9ytqBQiWkVtSQf37bk2pSCIBR24pZml6xwpo51VePjw1YkdueaXBncgKLgC3MaiqSVFCP8tVL4aHmg2dBzmr4NmTOSJuO/s1600/002.JPG" height="268" width="320" /></a></div>
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Top quality maple</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQEovwCRoH2gyjyT14WisLNtCFn4O1o85UMoVZAs8gZWO-UZ9hdgany4MJvThl-vOA65-hkoZJ6pd73bzDgdAOhYL1I_4G3SOSr8WY5ZMMTg9gbAeU2Gm8ZqVJ-zkPwhivmLdub6EfJbIU/s1600/016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQEovwCRoH2gyjyT14WisLNtCFn4O1o85UMoVZAs8gZWO-UZ9hdgany4MJvThl-vOA65-hkoZJ6pd73bzDgdAOhYL1I_4G3SOSr8WY5ZMMTg9gbAeU2Gm8ZqVJ-zkPwhivmLdub6EfJbIU/s1600/016.JPG" height="640" width="512" /></a></div>
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My Elm - the tree from 27 yrs ago</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXuqkKoL6oVc2FlW9BVzFHYM2a4B6QyIky_mIiPA3HQ4JWPWtXmW0Z-OLCTDEUPhbdZGq1QlIxkvORllkvLqbu3L5QEDXzURr2VAq5eRRYjUWThyLi7pc3LLGjBs5QZFZE15jQUqjDuMx/s1600/038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXuqkKoL6oVc2FlW9BVzFHYM2a4B6QyIky_mIiPA3HQ4JWPWtXmW0Z-OLCTDEUPhbdZGq1QlIxkvORllkvLqbu3L5QEDXzURr2VAq5eRRYjUWThyLi7pc3LLGjBs5QZFZE15jQUqjDuMx/s1600/038.jpg" height="542" width="640" /></a></div>
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Uk history tree - The Kiyohime clump from Dan bartons bonsai book</div>
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A simply beautiful trident forest</div>
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Admittedly there is a bit of space here now - but it means more time to devote to the trees that are left here - and we still have 60-70 trees in the shop sales stock to look after and 16 personal trees that are all on the path to becoming or remaining of showable standard. </div>
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The survivors of the sale were the junipers and pines, I'm not unhappy about that as one was in a very unique and never to be found again pot and the big red & black pines would be quite hard to replace - plus we have the 12 trees that were not included - they mostly show how my bonsai tastes are changing now - unusual species like bittersweet, more elegant styles reflected in the literati and deciduous trees, and the irreplaceable yamadori trees.</div>
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Objects of desire deserve sacrifice - </div>
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The Kimura Hinoki rock planting looks secured to stay in the UK for a while longer - although it is a tree that will sell one day to someone who desires it - it has been bought to remain on the open market and not to be shut away and lost for ever - the nice thing is we can share it at a few carefully chosen bonsai events in coming years - who knows - we may do a flower show or two ! just for a change of scenery once in a while</div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-47128181332307844992014-08-04T15:39:00.004-07:002014-08-04T15:39:44.405-07:00the pots my trees live inSlowly we are getting some nice pots to complement the trees as they mature and warrant them.<br />
Some have actually come with the trees, some have come with different trees in them and others I have traded for trees, just one in the selection was actually bought up till now<br />
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Old green glazed Tokoname pot housing a pyracantha </div>
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greens and golds in this beautiful pot holding a satsuki in training</div>
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Delicate pot for a delicate tree - Zelkova broom</div>
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a special pot made and inscribed by one of greatest unglazed pot makers ever. The inscription is to pay homage to the ascension to the throne of the new emperor of Japan. Yamadori juniper with grafted itoigawa foliage</div>
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Antique chinese - late 1800's or very early 1900's. Yamadori white pine in residence</div>
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Antique chinese cochin ware - mid 1800's would be fair estimate of production - 130 -160 years old</div>
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holds an oriental bittersweet</div>
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amazing delicate large oval - perfect lines, no warping - deshojo lives in this 1" of soil</div>
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Waiting for am acer........</div>
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lovely old pot from Anne swintons book - been used at Noelanders and will home a very nice juniper in spring</div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-36831468171725767332014-07-28T08:16:00.002-07:002014-07-28T08:50:13.962-07:00Chunky scottyWaiting for a pallet to arrive I fancied doing a bit of creative bonsai work this morning so took a tree from the raw material bench down the end of the garden to work on<br />
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This nice chunky tree was planned to be a semi cascade but after weeding and cleaning up the soil surface a perfect trunk base and root flare was exposed so to change the potting angle would have ruined this feature of the tree. Giving the tree a few minutes study I decided to compact the upper trunk and make an informal upright with a very classic branch structure. This choice makes the trunk base seem really big and ticks my favourite bonsai box.......to make the smallest convincing tree you can from the material in front go you.</div>
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There was no need to hurry today so every bit needed in the final design was wired in copper, the point of the main bend was raffia'd and taped to protect the cambium and to stop any major splitting before a 2mm copper guy wire was attached to a screw in the lower trunk and the tree compacted down to the desired position.<br />
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probably 2 1/2 to 3 hours went into the tree and the finished result for a first styling from semi raw material was really pleasing. This one will be uploaded to our various online sales areas as it was a nice simple and stress free styling (for the tree ! ;-))<br />
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Scots Pine, nice bark forming, great movement and lovely compact image</div>
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Decided to put it on Auction rather than Buy it Now so anyone interested my grab a nice tree at a nice price</div>
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<a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261546049775&ssPageName=STRK:MESCX:IT" target="_blank">Auction</a> </div>
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you got wires ! lol</div>
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admittedly I wouldn't recommend wiring a tree to 'wires' by Athlete unless you want to be very depressed - watch it before wiring and then the job seems far more bearable and enjoyable.</div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-85437990537673434452014-07-27T06:14:00.001-07:002014-07-27T06:14:17.331-07:00buds bursting out everywhere<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Back in June the Black and Red pine were de-candled as covered in this <a href="http://littlecornishtrees.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/pine-time.html" target="_blank">earlier blog post</a>.<br />
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The new buds started to form at the points where the original shoots were cut off about 3 weeks later, and now, after another 3 weeks have passed these buds are extending and new back buds are forming old older parts of the branches.<br />
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Black pine - 3 new terminal buds - one will be removed</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtA_Cmwqd3T8tqx-zb93Yc12xIEvNJoRtJ9B_Q2u6MdeK8mf2sUVyRYreT3xG4mRACsAQxi0uJMUxclpLT8UhluElqLJjqU180hi5MGPrMcknp8IZ7IvUrBzemCGAP8vQZNGPiaiALZ14/s1600/002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtA_Cmwqd3T8tqx-zb93Yc12xIEvNJoRtJ9B_Q2u6MdeK8mf2sUVyRYreT3xG4mRACsAQxi0uJMUxclpLT8UhluElqLJjqU180hi5MGPrMcknp8IZ7IvUrBzemCGAP8vQZNGPiaiALZ14/s1600/002.JPG" height="502" width="640" /></a></div>
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Black pine again - 5 buds here - 3 are terminal buds and two have formed on the side of one of them. Tree health and an excellent fertiliser regime lead to good results like this. This tree has sat here for 3 years before it was strong enough to be candle cut due to poor soil and very weak roots when we got the tree - I also made a small mistake by fully styling the tree soon after getting it before the poor root system had been investigated - always learn from experience ! </div>
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this branch section is the junction between wood 3 & 4 years old showing a nice strong back bud. it will probably sit dormant until next year before developing into a small candle. </div>
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another new backbud on 4 to 5 year old wood - finally the tree can be developed now</div>
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Red pine this time - its a bud fest ! easy to see why they are called red pine too ! Incredible tree health - the colour is good, the needles are good. This tree will be styled this winter once the new needle clusters are fully hardened off.</div>
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Twin buds on a red pine terminal - uncut we only had one candle so the branch could only get longer - now we have 2 shoots so the branch can be ramified properly. Where I have 3 or more buds the two best placed ones will be selected as keepers and the others plucked off with tweezers. </div>
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Fertiliser observations: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjko9iIvStWMaJWUbj4CDftFT6MtqhKQVPeMf9UWFs4L-ebHJWBqbVUcrHoIfcejv35OeACUeEwxswYKbTF7zfS13r-Ew70muY_YQukEJf5D2rj5rlYaUlX-g3Eawcktyku6zKOldlPRsva/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjko9iIvStWMaJWUbj4CDftFT6MtqhKQVPeMf9UWFs4L-ebHJWBqbVUcrHoIfcejv35OeACUeEwxswYKbTF7zfS13r-Ew70muY_YQukEJf5D2rj5rlYaUlX-g3Eawcktyku6zKOldlPRsva/s1600/013.JPG" height="468" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yesterday all the baskets of fertiliser were replenished - we exclusively use our bonsai boost pellets as our organic dry feed and it took 2.5kg to do the lot - that means there are 125 baskets in use as it takes 20 grams per basket. Little things like knowing this help with planning when you are stocking up on consumables - buy the right amount, don't run out but don't waste money sitting on stuff from one year to the next. </div>
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You hear that fertilisers can burn roots........maybe some do but look at the picture above .......there is incredible root mass right under the basket ! if they're hungry you have to feed them</div>
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The <a href="http://www.bonsai-at-16.com/category-s/1828.htm" target="_blank">online shop has all the fertiliser products</a></div>
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Plan on feeding solids every 6 - 8 weeks from early spring until early Autumn. We boost this with dilute weekly feeds of liquids and tonics - fish emulsion is our trump card and we are now trialling using it alongside a seaweed and an algae based product - results are so promising these extras will be added to the product range soon. As you can see I don't have an endless list of fertiliser products as we want to sell what we use here - simple concise information and products makes bonsai health easy. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmBIUQJSEQjZAAGhj1edKOh298Q9kKTuOX_JfIkkUQm8Mj1AeDh5dYlcMN5m_ZKoCioi_P9JV8gFkXJlvPbfZenXGJqEtt7fJFQUYBF4yeSgqb534CionCNOfqxagvjap0iCuOPXmkweaf/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmBIUQJSEQjZAAGhj1edKOh298Q9kKTuOX_JfIkkUQm8Mj1AeDh5dYlcMN5m_ZKoCioi_P9JV8gFkXJlvPbfZenXGJqEtt7fJFQUYBF4yeSgqb534CionCNOfqxagvjap0iCuOPXmkweaf/s1600/008.JPG" height="287" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is a fruit crop plumping up nicely and a new burst of inner foliage shoots too - oriental bittersweet that I think will need guarding from the birds later in the year if we are to see the stunning display of brightly coloured seeds. This is a potential Noelanders accent tree once repotted if I can keep enough berries intact - I may experiment with a fridge with this little tree in the same way plants are controlled for major exhibitions like Chelsea flower show </div>
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white pine, yamadori juniper, deshojo, zelkova, juniper, black pine, mixed accent.....a lot of variety in one corner of the bench</div>
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Feed me !!</div>
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& choose life ;-)<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/0K-V8ZWyNMs?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-27213838142035639022014-07-20T02:58:00.004-07:002014-07-20T02:58:29.967-07:00MBA - the 2nd Magical bonsai accents show 2014Yesterday was the 2nd show highlighting all the bits and pieces that can go alongside our usual bonsai trees and displays. The accents and accompaniments can be linked to a theme, made into a display in their own right or just used as stand alone pieces. A show is about pictures thought rather than words so here we go:<br />
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Great show, really good social catch up with friends - looking forward to the next one, I already have a few ideas ! </div>
Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-61588935149940513732014-07-12T11:00:00.002-07:002014-07-13T01:19:52.631-07:00sales benches on a drizzly july day<a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.423117821163041.1073741835.211797225628436&type=1" target="_blank">The current available stock</a><br />
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I won't fill the blog with endless pictures of sales material - so just a neat little link to the facebook page<br />
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While taking all the sales pics I took a few others as you do. Quite a grey day, bit of drizzle, quite atmospheric<br />
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Variety is the spice of life - colour, texture, style </div>
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Trident and Palmatum defoliated within a few days of each other - a perfect example of the difference in vigour between the two species</div>
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Common Juniper - repotted to desired angle in 2013, cut back lots of long branches this spring, long way to go though - but it lives and grows here OK just like any other tree. </div>
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The weak white pine that was dropping branches pushed out so much strong growth after feeding last year with our bonsai boost fertiliser pellets - there were 24 baskets full in 2013, 6 this year, tree recovered now and ready to style this winter - from now on its only going to be fed in sept but will be watered once a month with our fish emulsion</div>
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Taxus Cuspidata - needs a show pot and 2 more yrs refining - we are getting there with this one</div>
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smaller trees, some styled but most are kept as good quality part trained material</div>
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Cleaned up, thinned a bit, opened out to let light in - important to keep the tree from hollowing out</div>
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Peeking through from the path</div>
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Down the other end we have material trees ....some for sale, some project trees of mine - hinoki, beuvronensis, sabina, olive, rosemary</div>
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More of the same - scots pine, prunus mume, potentilla, spruce, sabina, yew</div>
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Kimura through the drizzle----- even looks nice from the back</div>
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Wrong type of rain (reign) but who can spell these days ! </div>
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<br />Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-86420812015418731902014-07-01T23:22:00.001-07:002014-07-01T23:22:56.301-07:00It's no good just guessingCertain parts of our hobby rely on artistic tastes, free thought and individualality but there are other parts of bonsai that do not work within such loose parameters and need to be fixed, virtually set in stone in fact.<div><br></div><div>All the species we aim to keep have a ph band where the plant has evolved to survive, grow strongly and remain healthy. Along with climatic requirements this is the main reason we don't see every species in the wild all growing side by side.........but as bonsai growers of course we want the greatest variety of species in our collections, or in our sales stock, so the challenges are there to try and keep everything in top health. Soil ph will be governed initially by the soil components you use but it is the water you use regularly that will end up dictating the ph in the pot, so even if you have put an azalea in Kanuma soil (ph 5 to 5.5) it does not mean the condition will remain this way long term if the daily watering is neutral to alkaline. </div><div><br></div><div>Summer time.............</div><div><br></div><div>The rain water butts are long emptied and we are relying on our tap water supplies and hose pipes......who actually has a clue what is coming out the end?........when I do club talks often people will say "I only use rainwater, so I'm fine "..... But rain can be acid, neutral (ph 7) or even alkaline so rainwater is equally as random as tap water in my book. We were relying on tap water twice a day this summer and I felt a few trees were the wrong green........guessing the reason is pointless, how long is a piece of string ? </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScxrnZMuJp1pl3HXp3X_B72ASBPb5Ons_Btzhw5IyXwfcS8lizdKbi3yeGCTtf-ZQ2KdjRPVXA3CLyLvs4jHdCGl7f7_w7BeKryEXeOEkktdk0DGDEStwrTr0TkjmkcRet5e6rPRPlQtJ/s640/blogger-image--359114718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScxrnZMuJp1pl3HXp3X_B72ASBPb5Ons_Btzhw5IyXwfcS8lizdKbi3yeGCTtf-ZQ2KdjRPVXA3CLyLvs4jHdCGl7f7_w7BeKryEXeOEkktdk0DGDEStwrTr0TkjmkcRet5e6rPRPlQtJ/s640/blogger-image--359114718.jpg"></a></div> </div><div>There we go...........my outside tap water after filling a 200liter barrel ! Water alkaline enough to slowly kill satsuma azaleas, to weaken pines and to make many deciduous trees pale. (Some wild collected junipers come from areas of limestone deposits so they could carry on ok) . You could never guess our tap water was so alkaline as we have absolutely no lime scale deposits in kettles, around taps etc - the meter was calibrated twice, tested on known solutions etc as I could not believe the reading initially. </div><div><br></div><div>What clues to we get ?</div><div><br></div><div>Use your eyes as the trees indicate if they are thriving or not. Foliage colour is the biggest clue, paler or 'brighter' green on a tree that should be deep dark green is the first pointer. A tree that doesn't seem to respond to fertiliser the way it should is another fairly obvious clue as a tree in a wrong ph environment will struggle with nutrient uptake. Another pointer to something amiss is a tree that has been perfect with a previous owner that does into decline soon after you get it. A shock change from one water quality to another will often make a bonsai unhappy. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRNLNMJKAoCQnbYugfErpkMXKEiM0d1MQQXIk2NlUI2w8lSIiqDpXXXO5_h2rgP9QB8PE4BffvMckNZkpecit23Mc_bRZz8vlJSmq0Wsih9V5LZA_8YbKdSekCmI5KBsl0FFEU3jymKnq/s640/blogger-image-906547534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRNLNMJKAoCQnbYugfErpkMXKEiM0d1MQQXIk2NlUI2w8lSIiqDpXXXO5_h2rgP9QB8PE4BffvMckNZkpecit23Mc_bRZz8vlJSmq0Wsih9V5LZA_8YbKdSekCmI5KBsl0FFEU3jymKnq/s640/blogger-image-906547534.jpg"></a></div><br><div>2ml of horticultural high quality acid and the 200 litres are now ph5.9, Perfect for the trees here. </div><div><br></div><div>Watering is now all done by can of course ! But it is a more controllable way to water and certainly leads to better observation. There is always the option to add a pumped hose set up to the barrel in the future too. </div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>3 weeks in and the pine and yew needles are getting darker green, so are the beech leaves. A common juniper is now a deeper blue green rather than the bright green so the trees are slowly responding. As a tree settles into it's preferred conditions it will grow and respond to our methods and tactics far more predictably, but without measuring the basics how can anyone guess or even advise a grower on their trees? </div><div><br></div></div>Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-13067517194946827002014-06-16T15:33:00.002-07:002014-06-16T15:33:57.140-07:00Honoured and in awe - when a tree finds you Special Trees find you, not the other way round. ...... I went on a bonsai@16 mini one day road trip yesterday to collect some spanish Yamadori that my friend Peter had selected but more of that later....... Poking up among the sabinas I spotted the unmistakable green foliage colour of a white pine on its own roots and on having a peek I was greeted by a truly ancient tree, silvered flaking bark, cracked natural deadwood and amazing elegance - this was it ! the white pine I wanted as my 'keeper'.<br />
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The tree was one of several supplied directly by Seji Morimae of S Cube Bonsai in Tokyo for an exhibition in the UK back in 2007. It is true white pine yamadori and is in the region of 200 years old, the wood is solid, the branches are like stone and the balance of fresh new needles emerging from the weathered tree is just about the most perfect way to sum up true bonsai ......</div>
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Age doesn't always manage to balance with elegance but this one does it with ease - I guess thats why S Cube has a reputation for sourcing and supplying some incredibly high quality trees.</div>
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Once the needles harden in their sheaths the tree can be wired and the pads formed - so I have a few months to just wait and appreciate the tree as it is - the sign that white pine are ready to be worked is the brown sheaths falling off the new needle clusters - then the needles have hardened in their bases and are not so fragile they damage or fall out</div>
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Pot was interesting - for half an hour I was considering putting the tree in a round shallow rustic one, but it very quickly faded as I started to look at the tree in its pot - this is the one - it was the one 9 years ago when it was repotted in Japan and nothing has changed</div>
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I've had white pines on their own roots over the last 15-16 years and all are still looking great with their current owners - good soil components and protection from prolonged wet weather in Autumn, winter and spring are the main considerations - and letting the tree weather properly in winter is essential - best way to weaken one is to put it in a greenhouse for the winter, they need to have a winter dormancy. xxx (Season care and observations I've made over the years relates of course to my home climate, zone 8, Atlantic coast of Cornwall UK )xxx</div>
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It is funny how we mature along with our trees and tastes - for years I was totally into big chunky trunked bonsai - the bigger and heavier the better !! I think a time comes where you start to appreciate other qualities in bonsai and so trees that grow slowly, take time to ramify, require special care and techniques etc begin to really shine through - I still have a few chunky ones of course, a good one has its merits and if it is unique or very unusual like the Japanese Yamadori taxus from Hokkaido, the crepe myrtle in our stock etc so much the better.....but a truly unique bonsai tree with special qualities or a story / history will always do it for me over a tree grown in a fixed style that can be commercially produced in large numbers. </div>
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Bonsai as a hobby is a path - we go from one tree, to ending up with dozens or even hundreds, then for many people large ones give them the buzz, then some people enter a stage of aiming for refined quality, others get a little slack round the middle, a bit lazy with the wiring and they claim to love naturalism ! lol, and then the path ends at shohin !!!!! hahaha - hope we all can nod but also smile at the bonsai path</div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-29446345118078336672014-06-14T12:02:00.001-07:002014-06-14T12:11:21.106-07:00Crenata chronicles IIMy favorite bonsai species - fagus Crenata - Japanese white bark beech - I've had one or more here to look after at all times for a decade now - from a naive first purchase of a European one grown from seed - they have big leaves, terrible coarse growth, smooth browny grey bark and never go white unless you paint them with lime sulphar. After that I realised you only get a good one from Japan so I've sought out such material since, learning and practicing on less expensive ones and now furthering my learning on nicer ones.<br />
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My friend and customer had picked the tree he liked from the two specimen trees on this years shipment so it was decided by him really which one I was going to keep - I purposely hadn't studied either tree too much so that way I was happy with either.<br />
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I let the tree leaf out and start to harden off without touching it then pruned out some over strong branches that were crowding the apex. Now the leaves were harder I added our fertiliser pellets so the tree can replace the energy spent leafing out and build the strength needed to form next years buds - with crenata the feeding we do now makes very little visible difference to the tree as the cigar buds were formed last year - if we get the tree care wrong this year the buds will be weak and the tree will be poor next year. If you plan on buying a really weak one with a few leaves miles away from the trunk on bare branches be aware it will take many years to rebuild the tree - </div>
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often weak trees lose important lower branches and end up looking like this:</div>
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sorry to the seller on ebay trying to sell this tree for using their picture as an example of what a ruined and beyond rescue white beech looks like but this shows just about everything that can go wrong with them - every lower branch gone, a mop of long apex shoots surviving on top with a few leaves on the tips. </div>
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<u>Apically strong</u></div>
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Crenata are so apically strong that left unchecked the lower limbs will be dropped so top pruning is essential</div>
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The future of all branches lays with the inner shoots and not with the outer leaves so they have to see some light, and get some air movement - thin the apex and outer canopy , cut leaves in half or more to reduce shading and remove all blind leaves (leaves with no bud at the base).All branches on even the best trees get too old, tired and thick near the ends eventually so a supply of viable inner sub branches are essential to cut back to.</div>
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Remember we own and grow these trees to be seen in winter so we need convincing ramification, natural lines and we need to see the trees structure. You see a few poorly ramified trees in exhibits with the brown leaves left on - trying to add a bit more volume and hide the fact that the trees are poor inside where it counts. If we spend the time to do the tree properly they make the perfect winter image tree</div>
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When the tree is vigorous the branches tend to rise up - driven by apical strength again - They set quicker if wired in the growing season but we must not scar the bark so I use lots of guy wires and as looser traditional wiring here and there in June</div>
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Here she is....................loving the sun.......they are lovers of warmth and need a lot more than our native beech - lack of sun & over proteting is another reason these trees get leggy and weak. (the tree is not yellow on one side, the evening sun is shining through the leaves)</div>
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Looking at the above picture we can see the tree is solid with inner leaves - they key point is we can actually SEE them - so they can see the light too. The outer shoots that were shading inner sections were cut back to 2 leaves bearing buds at their bases, as many blind leaves with no buds in these sections were cut off too - they just take up space and offer no help with refining our tree - hangers on if you like</div>
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The new buds are forming well now at the leaf bases - I will cut back to 2 in areas where the outer one points in the right direction to continue the branch - if it doesn't you must decide whether to cut back to bud 1 or 3 - The safest method is to cut back to 2 or 3 buds for now and cut again later when you see the number 1 bud is swelling and viable.</div>
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The final bonus on this tree was buried under the weeds - a <i>boom</i> nebari, fused roots, the lot. it was like finding buried treasure</div>
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Before</div>
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after</div>
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There is still a lot of years work on this tree to get it where it needs to be - the first real work will begin this winter when we can see whats going on inside</div>
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Has to be this one.........</div>
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its in there...................................</div>
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but there are others worthy - has to rate as one of the best opening riffs</div>
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and as its a great day we'll have one more....oh yes, just one more</div>
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Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-44880416796174699882014-06-14T09:49:00.001-07:002014-06-14T13:48:15.936-07:00getting some stock readyTodays plans were changed and I had a few free hours so decided to get the next batch of material cleaned so I started up, photographed and uploaded to various online sales sites we use<br />
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Shohin conifers were order of the day<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOngPaAii-RPuk4kbhN3-Z1j6LPz3gfhVuIRH5QhldCbEGpU8xWnomizkmciIbAXOEYLscwAxpGWsmK4BhoYmE5eqVopXXyVhSZzunRub04E-Wb9sLJKfrmL_NjjjwpGvFw8f0dAXDMJU/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOngPaAii-RPuk4kbhN3-Z1j6LPz3gfhVuIRH5QhldCbEGpU8xWnomizkmciIbAXOEYLscwAxpGWsmK4BhoYmE5eqVopXXyVhSZzunRub04E-Wb9sLJKfrmL_NjjjwpGvFw8f0dAXDMJU/s1600/001.JPG" height="580" width="640" /></a></div>
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Scots pine cascade, a little bit of wiring with our super soft 0.8mm copper soon had it in shape. Lovely tree, very shallow compact root ball, 23cm height from apex to bottom of cascade <u>- Sold already</u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtm_-YT2-XUqf9P1lhCzZdrPQfjZrzkEXlWGFWTAxjA5yubRUF6MbxX50pK2fADm51x4eKhQv8q1JUqlo9VxAimF7oMCKektzbqxMJjpdSLn3RLQKuADfeTgWV9HXGg5qiN4Rt3aJROXt/s1600/007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtm_-YT2-XUqf9P1lhCzZdrPQfjZrzkEXlWGFWTAxjA5yubRUF6MbxX50pK2fADm51x4eKhQv8q1JUqlo9VxAimF7oMCKektzbqxMJjpdSLn3RLQKuADfeTgWV9HXGg5qiN4Rt3aJROXt/s1600/007.JPG" height="400" width="387" /></a></div>
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Curly raw material Itoigawa junipers from Japan - these make superb shohin junipers and are great for workshops, practice, for wiring by the TV etc. Purchased from the safety of our ebay store they are £85.00, directly from us £70.00. I've cleaned up 2 for now but have some more.</div>
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Here is another similar tree but chunkier, next size up type of thing</div>
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<a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261506078276&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT" target="_blank">Listed on ebay it costs </a>£95.00, buying direct £80.00</div>
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Then we have three really good junipers - all are itoigawa, multi trunk clump style trees with compact mature foliage (made in Japan from air layering branches from old mature bonsai)</div>
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Tree one</div>
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Tree two</div>
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Tree three</div>
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Once these little babies are wired out and layered a bit you will have a brilliant little mature shohin bonsai - all three are 16-17cm tall and 22-23cm wide. Directly from us they are £120 each</div>
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Tucked in with the Junipers was a great little dwarf Japanese Black Pine, I love it when that happens ! £115.00</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnO1pgFD02eTwBVHz1oeB50LmfEBmlb9gr0FIBmnTZb6147ncD6xJG6YJ56eSbtq_FZ9eNckUWzbWdYLVZScJD8PVopeUY39Ho5q0u-bJc4wkF5sCVOAyLsE0lt0wkodVX4A_GWEgsOxqn/s1600/080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnO1pgFD02eTwBVHz1oeB50LmfEBmlb9gr0FIBmnTZb6147ncD6xJG6YJ56eSbtq_FZ9eNckUWzbWdYLVZScJD8PVopeUY39Ho5q0u-bJc4wkF5sCVOAyLsE0lt0wkodVX4A_GWEgsOxqn/s1600/080.JPG" height="336" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above tree just sold, but nice to see it anyway </div>
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We now have 20-25 pieces of raw collected and field grown part trained material here. One by one I'll style them and add them to the bonsai stock for sale but a few can be offered as material in case anyone wants project or workshop trees. Here is a spruce, wild, quite aged, very compact from grazing and completely settled from collection - ready to style, £100.00</div>
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This is a tidy cork bark elm - 20cm tall, excellent variety with the dark green leaves, compact shoots etc. Great trunk size on such a short tree - rough pruned branch structure ready to be refined more to make a really high quality shohin cork bark elm. I bought this tree to keep.......but you cant think that with every tree you spot £85.00 bought direct.</div>
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With so many tempting trees I needed to bring payment methods up to date so now we are taking credit and debit cards - our service is fully mobile so we can process payments here in the garden, at shows, when delivering trees, when meeting in car parks etc</div>
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and now some tunes for my favorite readers</div>
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More treats to follow soon </div>
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Wow - that was quick - the man is a bonsai machine............</div>
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29" tall san hose juniper - wire free at the moment, ready for work -a nice inexpensive juniper with really shallow root ball, very very healthy foliage, nice carved shari, aged and dried out</div>
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Bargain piece of material - collected from the garden £180 gets it</div>
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And a similar juniper but different species - 26" tall, just as shallow a root ball, equally nice carved shari</div>
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you know when you have a workshop session booked with a bonsai professional and you get the wicked thought pop into your head - I wonder what I've got that will really challenge him ? ........but it must have a bit of potential so you go home with a reasonable tree at the end of the day ............THIS IS THAT TREE! £145.00 for a very reasonable material juniper</div>
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<br />Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8818598590989901949.post-12491997158042136522014-06-13T09:55:00.001-07:002014-06-13T09:55:22.722-07:00pine time<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>We have all the main pine bonsai here as they give variety, they all basically require different methods and techniques to maintain and it also spreads the workload over several months. If all the trees were the same type I'd have loads of repetitive work to do! <div><br></div><div>Today the black pine and red pine were looking perfect to start the decandling process. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ljVs-0j6bspAktWP4o3oW-Flt2nhPM27R3YXSTMBtPkGgdsWpFZlaJaGauQj6I_VS3UwNDzJ4OdNdbhOxLnJYdycRp0qT9RHSVp0GeUrtGhubwBHc_4IHmC_0UzSAgnU4QTZ0Me3NRLU/s640/blogger-image-1892872324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ljVs-0j6bspAktWP4o3oW-Flt2nhPM27R3YXSTMBtPkGgdsWpFZlaJaGauQj6I_VS3UwNDzJ4OdNdbhOxLnJYdycRp0qT9RHSVp0GeUrtGhubwBHc_4IHmC_0UzSAgnU4QTZ0Me3NRLU/s640/blogger-image-1892872324.jpg"></a></div><br><div>The point of cutting the first shoot off is to cause a second set of smaller buds to form that will give finer growth, to hopefully produce several buds in one place so we can select the best ones, to trigger back budding so we can make the tree appear denser and to eventually give strong inner branches that we can cut back to.</div></div><div><br></div><div>The picture above shows the needles extending from the sheaths and beginning to point out away from the shoot.....this is the time I remove all the medium and weakish ones, but not the extremely weak or the very strong</div><div><br></div><div>The strong shoots are left on the tree for the next two weeks.........</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXJN_yzUX90BbjgVYno994EY5V1tZaOCcvSXAZRIoNX9KG3sUFGk9_GRkhqGnuDqQUrceN1i9bQn-AlAD6WzjQIL994PvCjVcmMlniTv0EXnk4WAU1z4XbX7P1TVYWNUwEbQSHwUrTvMb1/s640/blogger-image--1206103819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXJN_yzUX90BbjgVYno994EY5V1tZaOCcvSXAZRIoNX9KG3sUFGk9_GRkhqGnuDqQUrceN1i9bQn-AlAD6WzjQIL994PvCjVcmMlniTv0EXnk4WAU1z4XbX7P1TVYWNUwEbQSHwUrTvMb1/s640/blogger-image--1206103819.jpg"></a></div>Here is our bigger black pine showing the strongest candles in the apex still in place.....this is done to give the cut areas a head start in forming their new buds. If we cut off the strongest areas now they will form big strong new buds first making the strong area even stronger and the weak areas will be held back even further.</div><div><br></div><div>Because the strong shoots are in place the tree will not try to form new buds here, but in all the cut areas we have triggered the budding and back budding process. As we know bonsai is not calendar lead but dictated by the trees so I expect to remove the strong shoots in 2 weeks time, but if the weather turned colder than expected I would add a few more days to the waiting time.</div><div><br></div><div>In the top picture are two different sets of shoots. The pale ones are red pine and these trees are treated the same as the Japanese black pine. This tree was quite balanced so it had very even strength all over, probably due to the fact it came directly from japan this winter, so all the shoots apart from any tiny weak inner shoots were cut off. In the picture below I'm working up the tree </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkWjwdJbwrusw87DJmSpuLDkXI08bl_hFClDS-II3eD_7CBDpSy_SrlrIDL5r4DXZ-kZ7t47Ybnr29vtBgEk5yqT_Z_-1RnDyssmynGNZDBDHXgrPhltTvsWaCzG3XtPHI3SJnaf3eZse/s640/blogger-image-1359582421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkWjwdJbwrusw87DJmSpuLDkXI08bl_hFClDS-II3eD_7CBDpSy_SrlrIDL5r4DXZ-kZ7t47Ybnr29vtBgEk5yqT_Z_-1RnDyssmynGNZDBDHXgrPhltTvsWaCzG3XtPHI3SJnaf3eZse/s640/blogger-image-1359582421.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Here's the black pine</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieTwDPUfgI5mFPftQOnTzqfR6crMod_rS08BehO7uKZiMHzazDMrhAfYoj8HYnl0KEAuer9o51lbQTnLNld0H4iykYbdH6S7D25gtA72XROjmBVcIUQSv1uLZP4EcoIkXg5fPfbZwOhxqA/s640/blogger-image--1604631441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieTwDPUfgI5mFPftQOnTzqfR6crMod_rS08BehO7uKZiMHzazDMrhAfYoj8HYnl0KEAuer9o51lbQTnLNld0H4iykYbdH6S7D25gtA72XROjmBVcIUQSv1uLZP4EcoIkXg5fPfbZwOhxqA/s640/blogger-image--1604631441.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div>The black pine has taken 3 years to become strong enough after purchase to even consider candle cutting. It was in poor condition as far as strength goes - pale, leggy, terrible soil so very poor roots etc. with hindsight I made a mistake and styled the tree straight away so it had a poor<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> year following the wiring until I could repot it into a proper soil mix . Not candle cutting after the repot and not needle plucking either was the quickest way to help the tree recover, needles photosynthesise and this feeds the tree. The energy generated by foliage strengthens roots, and as the roots were poor the tree needed foliage to aid recovery. The feed pellets we designed have helped a lot too, the tree has bounced back and now we can begin the refining. The pellets are reduced now but the tree gets a fish emulsion drench every week.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">We sold a proper white pine this week, and I had the option to make a few improvements before delivering it so out came the power saw. ......... It was a grafted white on black, we'll over 50 years old lovely twist in the trunk but still had the big low branch in place, now styled into a pad. These low branches on grafted pines are there to keep the trunk taper on course so you don't see a big ugly step down, but this one was right inside the curve and it had already well and truly done its job so it was time to come off</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IhWvt_mkuFA2blhXIPXFpDNPGT0ndT3EH3s-SdEyksq4dswzO8VyQJ0gksQmYzKdpQCJETWms3UOUgfxnIY735dH0PgFe4Ie28aTu3z7c7jr4khevFp3MwUFc3A9BeWLXzieKfEZxkC_/s640/blogger-image--1480782539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IhWvt_mkuFA2blhXIPXFpDNPGT0ndT3EH3s-SdEyksq4dswzO8VyQJ0gksQmYzKdpQCJETWms3UOUgfxnIY735dH0PgFe4Ie28aTu3z7c7jr4khevFp3MwUFc3A9BeWLXzieKfEZxkC_/s640/blogger-image--1480782539.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Sorted !!,!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">I've had this tree here 16 months on and off so you get used to seeing the older image but a couple of buyers came to the garden and loved the tree without the branch</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-C7JItLw4_hc7X4o-lMx-oglLdj32YOzY8FfjB7tO-FwECTcCN8C71RIOh4T8QtFTVhMciBypWCrhXDfDKr6DYJTxlrEGkfbpFBLkUpDXPD9VE02ZUQ5Oja3Cv-iUfvXtsyLG8RDezpA/s640/blogger-image-647429864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-C7JItLw4_hc7X4o-lMx-oglLdj32YOzY8FfjB7tO-FwECTcCN8C71RIOh4T8QtFTVhMciBypWCrhXDfDKr6DYJTxlrEGkfbpFBLkUpDXPD9VE02ZUQ5Oja3Cv-iUfvXtsyLG8RDezpA/s640/blogger-image-647429864.jpg"></a></div><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">The Peter Adams workshop scots pine is off to a new owner tomorrow so being a different species it is not candle cut like the trees we started with. It will make new buds if we cut off a whole shoot but it will not open this year so the tree would have no 2014 needles and a pine needs some needles from every year. The strong shoots were shortened and that is all that needs doing, basically I balance the shoots across the whole tree </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div>Marcus wattshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13112038203053593137noreply@blogger.com0